There’s a lot to see at fashion week. Blink (or scroll too quickly) and you’ll miss the details: feathers Bagsfuturistic Sun glassesfork jewelry. Throughout the month, we’ll be highlighting the things we saw that surprised or delighted us.
PARIS — Backstage at the Givenchy show on Sunday night, designer Matthew Williams scrolled through his phone to show off his visual credentials for his fall collection. It was only the second time he had presented a Givenchy collection on a catwalk in front of a live audience since being named its creative director in 2020.
One of the images was of Audrey Hepburn wearing a black evening gown and beaded choker in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” – perhaps one of the trendiest looks of all time.
In some ways, it was no surprise that Mr. Williams was inspired by the aesthetic of the 1961 film; aside from, well, Tiffany & Company, the brand most associated with the film is Givenchy, whose founder, Hubert de Givenchy, designed the satin dress who turned Mrs. Hepburn’s Holly Golightly into an icon.
But Mr. Williams’ reference was still something of a shock. Behind the scenes before his other show, in October, the streetwear designer seemed more interested in presenting his personal point of view (“skate rat turned club kid turned DJ turned designer”, as the Times called him in 2017) rather than digging into the archives of the house looking for material.
However, here he is, in 2022, putting pearls on the necks of a dozen models. Admittedly, some of the collars were designed to pull out of distressed cropped hoodies. And the pearls weren’t tiny drops tied into elegant strands, but big orbs that sprouted tiny crystallized spores. A tiny Givenchy logo was printed on some solitary pearls, because even they could not escape the luxury logomania. Collars are also available in matte black, for an added edge.
The overall effect was cool and tough, enhanced by the models’ fake piercings and, at times, bleached eyebrows. As the brand noted in a press release about the collection, “nothing is too precious” — not even the memory of Holly Golightly.