In a movie as fashionable as “House of Gucci”, costumes play a leading role.
It was up to Oscar-winning costume designer Janty Yates to help Lady Gaga, Adam Driver, and the rest of the cast transform into opulent and ruthless members of the Gucci fashion dynasty.
The outfits featured throughout the film, in theaters Wednesday, coincide with the arcs of the various characters, including Gaga’s Patrizia Reggiani, whose humble beginnings became a distant memory after her marriage to the Gucci family.
“She would live the scene,” Yates told the Daily News of Gaga. “She had her accent all the time. I’d be Paulo or Maurizio or Aldo (Gucci), or someone else, and she would just live the scene and say, “This is what I want to wear for this.” And we would. It would be completely accessorized, from shoes to bag to belt. She had 54 looks, so we had a lot of fittings.
Gaga never rehearsed an outfit or jewelry in the film, which depicts the struggle for power within the Italian fashion label – and the murder plot that followed – which happened after Patrizia married. Maurizio Gucci, played by Driver.
Yates and his team made many costumes from scratch – a process that included recreating the clothes worn by the real Gucci.
“There’s a huge amount of references, of photographic references, and there’s also the Gucci Museum, which is really a source of knowledge,” Yates said.
“They had things that went back to the 70s, beautiful costumes, that I had never seen before. They had so many portraits on the walls, so many footage of Aldo (former president of Gucci). There are two documentaries – one on Patrizia Reggiani – but it contains a huge amount of footage. “
The costume team made around 40 costumes for Driver and 15 more for Al Pacino, who plays Aldo in the film directed by Ridley Scott.
Yates, 71, has worked on Scott’s films often over the years, including “Gladiator,” which won him the Oscar for Best Costume Design in 2001.
“It was a whole different piece of cake,” Yates said of “House of Gucci,” adding, “It was several pieces of cake, because it is an extremely well-respected fashion house, although at the same time. he era of our (movie), which is from 1975 to 1995, it really wasn’t big in fashion, it was very conservative in their fashion.
“You would see all the press of people leaving the store and people buying stuff there. They only bought accessories and luggage. They wouldn’t be dressed in Gucci, amazingly enough.
Yates credits former Gucci Creative Director Tom Ford with revolutionizing the business and creating new enthusiasm for its clothing during the 1990s.
The British costume designer considers the brand’s appeal to be “high right now” and describes Gucci’s legacy as “ongoing”.
“It evolves. This is changing, ”Yates said. “I mean, I wouldn’t wear any of Alessandro Michele’s (current creative director) models, but the whole Millennial Gang would definitely do. Billie Eilish never got out of it. Harry Styles never got out of it. Jared Leto never got out of it. Everyone is wearing Gucci now. It’s extraordinary.”
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