“I really thought she would live to be 100, I don’t know why,” Fendi designer Kim Jones, who was made an Officer of the Order of British Fashion in 2020, said in a few words. just hours after Queen Elizabeth II died on Wednesday.
Then, with that proverbial stiff upper lip, it was on to the job at hand.
Fendi is one of many European brands boosting New York Fashion Week this season, staging a large-scale fashion show and apparel collection in a packed Hammerstein ballroom on Friday night to celebrate the iconic bag’s 25th anniversary. Wand, introduced in 1997. .
Also following the money from the growing US luxury market, Marni took her show on the road, while Givenchy, Courrèges, Kiton and Isabel Marant toast new stores in the US with dinners and parties. Munich-based luxury e-commerce site MyTheresa also planted a flag at New York Fashion Week, hosting a luncheon for Gabriela Hearst and celebrating the overall rise in US sales of 110% during the last year and a half.
Texas and Florida might be the hottest US retail markets right now, but New York Fashion Week is the place to go for media heat, which is why Fendi chose it. to restart the Baguette activity. New York put the Fendi bag on the pop culture map, thanks to an appearance in the original series “Sex and the City.”
So, of course, Sarah Jessica Parker was on the show — along with Kim Kardashian, Kate Moss, Linda Evangelista, and a slew of other notables — and even created her own personalized version of the Wand.
To foster a “downtown New York vibe,” Jones tapped his lifelong fashion hero and former Louis Vuitton boss Marc Jacobs.
Jacobs created a collection within the collection, using his love of logomania to play with Fendi’s moniker on Baguettes, and designing 10 looks in the spirit of his current exploration of historic romance and the street.
Jones also teamed up with iconic New York jeweler Tiffany & Co., newly added to the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton family of brands, on Tiffany blue baguettes with silver charms, and a handmade sterling silver baguette. the hand resembling a jewel itself, for the ultimate collectible.
This connection was more or less coincidental, Jones said, explaining how he realized when he opened the Fendi store on Fifth Avenue across from the Tiffany flagship that the Baguette was not just a bag, but a cut in diamond.
“I wanted to combine those three things, and it’s quite playful and festive,” he said of the Fendi, Marc Jacobs, Tiffany trifecta concocting bingeable looks.
“There’s a lot of depressing things going on in the world, so I thought it was good to have a little fun,” he said, showing off a new chewing gum-sized Tiffany diamond. gum on his finger.
In stores next month, the collection includes colorful sportswear, shearling outerwear and cool fits, all with maximalist details like tulle on skirts, sequins on sweatshirts and jumpsuits, and pockets transformed into chopsticks on fleece sweaters, baseball caps, gloves, alligators and socks.
“It was really exciting to see how a bag can be transformed into a collection,” said Silvia Venturini Fendi, the brand’s creative director of accessories, menswear and kidswear, who created the quirky style as an alternative to the ubiquitous backpack from the 90s – the one that still allows hands-free movement thanks to its ergonomic design, tucked under the arm.
“It was one of the first embroidered bags but meant to be worn during the day, so we liked the idea of having a mix of embroidery, sequins and sweatshirts,” she told About the clothing collection.
New iterations of the Wand itself include a puffy multi-pocket version for today’s gadget lovers. “You have a place for your airpods, your toothpicks, your asthma inhaler, it’s good for guys and girls, and it can also be a bum wand,” Jones said, noting the adjustable strap. on her personal bag, in pale pink.
For his part, Jacobs developed a “Fendiroma” logo. He mixed his brand codes with those of Fendi, creating a calfskin Baguette emblazoned with the words “The Baguette”, echoing his “The Tote” designs, as well as an additional version dripping with Swarovski crystals.
Jacobs brought silhouettes and fabrics from his recent ready-to-wear collections into the world of Jones, using a color palette of neon yellow, silver, gray and white inspired by the street workers of the city, and bleached or layered fabrics, he said.
“I like the idea of taking jeans, denim jackets, sweaters, the way people really dress, and instead of saying it’s such a shame that people look like that, to embracing what speaks to them and reforming it into something that evokes a period with more romance and magic,” Jacobs said of what currently excites her about fashion.
“When you tie a coat around your waist and it creates a stir, or when you make a long skirt out of jeans, there’s something old and historic. But when you break down the components and that you can identify them, you see it’s not a costume. It’s nice to squint and see what’s in front of you in a more magical way. When I look at it, I have a romantic view of what street clothes look like.
“And when you think of New York, it’s a pair of sneakers, jeans, a denim jacket, a tote bag and a Baguette,” he said. “It takes away the European fashion padding.”
But probably not the dough.