New designers at Bottega Veneta, Kenzo and Pucci to debut soon – WWD

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Renowned talents and top second-tier designers continue to win top fashion design positions, and the first half of 2022 promises a host of intriguing debuts.

Emilio Pucci

Camille Miceli, most recently director of accessories creation at Louis Vuitton, will present her first creations at Emilio Pucci for spring 2022.

A seasoned designer who began her career in public relations, Miceli went on to work in the studio with some of the world’s most acclaimed fashion designers, including Karl Lagerfeld, Azzedine Alaïa, Marc Jacobs and Nicolas Ghesquière. “I was very lucky to be surrounded by these great talents and to learn from them,” she told WWD in an interview last year.

Miceli wants to express the cheerful side of the Florentine house as it pivots to become a resort-focused brand. “It’s more about an art of living, a way of life that inspires me the most,” explains the Parisian, who is half Italian and speaks the language fluently.

Controlled by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton since 2000, Pucci has experimented with a variety of permanent designers over the years, including Julio Espada, Christian Lacroix, Matthew Williamson, Peter Dundas and Massimo Giorgetti of MSGM, as well as studio setups. The brand had recently experimented with guest designers, including Christelle Kocher from France and Tomo Koizumi from Japan. Last year, he dropped a surprise collaboration with hip skate brand Supreme.

Kenzo

Another brand controlled by LVMH, Kenzo chose Nigo, a streetwear pioneer and passionate collector of clothing from the late Kenzo founder, Kenzo Takada. It will unveil its first collection for women and men during Paris Fashion Week later this month.

The designer, whose full name is Tomoaki Nagao, is best known as the founder of A Bathing Ape, even though he seemed destined for the Parisian post of plum. He was born in 1970, the year Takada opened his first boutique in Paris; the two men graduated from the same fashion school in Tokyo, Bunka Fashion College, and Nigo started his fashion career the same year, the Kenzo house joined LVMH.

Nigo, a prominent streetwear guru, is sure to bring the buzz and cultural motto to Kenzo.

He arrived in tandem with a new CEO of Kenzo: Sylvain Blanc, who was until recently CEO of Undiz, a division of the Etam group. Nigo took over from Felipe Oliveira Baptista, who parted ways with Kenzo last April after a two-year collaboration.

Bottega Veneta

French designer who has worked behind the scenes at several big brands, Matthieu Blazy was among those rushing to release Bottega Veneta due to the toxic work environment which led to the ousting of Creative Director Daniel Lee last November.

Blazy has been drawn to succeed Lee and will present her debut collection next month in Milan. He had initially joined Bottega Veneta in June 2020 as the director of ready-to-wear design of Calvin Klein 205W39NYC, where he was Design Director under Raf Simons. He also has worked in Céline’s studio under the direction of Phoebe Philo, then Creative Director, and for four years at Maison Margiela, eventually becoming responsible for her couture line, called Artisanal.

Blazy is said to share a similar sense of style with Lee, whose industry-tinged minimalism has helped fuel Bottega Veneta’s sales and increase her reach globally, especially with accessories like the Pouch bag to Lido sandals. .

Born in Paris in 1984, Blazy graduated from La Cambre in Brussels, and he began his fashion career as a male designer for Raf Simons.

Phoebe philo

One of the most revered and profitable designers of her generation, Phoebe Philo revealed last July that she would return to fashion after a long hiatus and set up an independent, eponymous fashion house, with LVMH as a minority investor.

The discreet and acclaimed British designer has said very little about her new project, saying only that she will create clothes and accessories “rooted in exceptional quality and design”. She is expected to disclose more details about her new brand this spring.

Certainly, she has kept a low profile since her release from Celine at the end of 2017.

A graduate of Central Saint Martins Fashion School in London, Philo was a classmate with Stella McCartney and worked with her when McCartney launched her own collection after graduation. Philo followed McCartney to Chloe in 1997 and took the top job in 2001 when McCartney left to start his own fashion house in a joint venture with Gucci Group.

She spent five years in the house belonging to Richemont, reinforced its fashion references and catapulted it into the high-margin leather goods sector. She resigned from Chloe in 2006 for personal reasons, to return three years later to take the reins of Céline, where she exceeded all revenue expectations and received wide acclaim, despite its reluctance to e-commerce and a policy of independence with the press.

Trussardi

Serhat Işık and Benjamin A. Huseby, the duo behind the Berlin-based avant-garde GmbH, are the new Creative Directors of Trussardi and will show their first effort for 2022, while continuing to design the GmbH label, founded in 2016.

Trussardi touted the designers’ commitment to inclusiveness and their “socially engaged perspective”.

Işık is a first generation German of Turkish descent and Huseby, of Norwegian-Pakistani descent, grew up in Norway.

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