In Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection, the Irish fashion designer continues to straddle the line between functionality and beauty that she so often does in her designs. Take her bomber jackets from her latest runway, which come in a loose, oversized fit in understated black and an all-over pink and green floral pattern. This outerwear is then reimagined as a voluminous mini dress with puff sleeves, identifiable by the bomber-inspired collar and zipper detailing. His utilitarian pieces, whether it’s a jacket or even a t-shirt, always look like works of art. All of the pieces were shown to an audience gathered inside the Central Criminal Court of England and Wales during London Fashion Week.
If you felt like this collection was also a mix of hard and soft elements in clothing, it’s because Rocha wanted the seasonal range to reflect the emotions she’s faced over the past few years. While her Fall/Winter 2022 presentation offered pure escapism, the spring items served to tap into difficult feelings and “the idea of translating all those complex emotions into clothes,” Rocha told British vogue. You can get a glimpse of her thought process via runway pieces like Rocha’s puff-sleeved pink floral dresses tied with harness straps that dangle like ribbons – the look is romantic and sentimental yet displays a strength and a impressive ferocity. Rocha’s floral and tulle designs are never too sweet to invite moans or rolled eyes from her fans.
Aside from the echinacea, chamomile, and daisy designs, another Rocha signature that ran throughout the men’s and women’s collection was pearls. (The spring 2023 range was the designer’s first official foray into menswear.) Models made new versions of her iconic Egg handbag, including one with a bulbous bead chain that doubled as a bracelet while that the gemstones, arranged in a ribbon, were displayed front and center of the bag. Elsewhere, clusters of beads have gathered strategically along the dresses’ necklines and hemlines to highlight its shape and make an otherwise simple knitted piece look more visually appealing.
Standout looks from the aforementioned menswear category included tiered tulle blazers and matching striped pants, babydoll tops with a silver metal buckle harness to give the dreamy look a tougher vibe, and an oversized shirt with an abstract floral pattern embroidered on the front (with a pleated khaki skirt). “I’m really proud of [deliver] man, I felt like I could work on this beautiful masculinity. It’s a vindication of everything I’ve done over the past ten years, what that role plays and how it intersects between the two – and I really wanted to explore that within masculinity.” , Rocha told Hypebeast.
However, we can’t end the discussion of Rocha’s brilliant Spring 2023 collection without a quick mention of her shoes. Following on from fall, the designer released new colors of her hybrid sneaker-flat shoe dubbed the Ivory Pearl and Crystal Beaded Round Toe Criss-Cross Low Trek Ballerinas. For those who don’t like the chunky, you might find yourself picking up Rocha’s metallic silver kicks which have a more minimalist feel. (You can always raise the bar for maximalism by styling said sneaker with a pair of the designer’s embellished socks.) Another shoe style of note in the upcoming lineup are Rocha’s new plexiglass running shoes, which are its own unique vision of jelly. trendy shoes for those who want something beyond the classic pair that everyone already owns.
Scroll forward to see more outfits from Rocha’s latest collection, including her couture-style closing bridal look. You’ll want to take the time to take a good look at each runway outfit, as the exquisite detailing is not to be missed.