Fashion brands come and go. And then they come back to life. A case in point is Roland Mouret, the French designer whose figure-hugging square-necked dresses were as sharp as his own chiseled jawline. Mouret’s famous Galaxy dress debuted in 2005, and he’s dressed a generation in his structured pieces, many with his signature sexy zipper that winds down the back.
When I interviewed him, two names were not on the discussion table: his loyal royal client Kate Middleton and Victoria Beckham.. Mouret has always been linked to Beckham’s eponymous clothing range, no doubt because of its shared aesthetic.
Mouret is significant in the fashion timeline because her approach to slim dresses has absolutely influenced over a decade of design in this particular category. However, he failed to survive the pandemic when no one dressed up. Unfortunately, his company went into administration.
A few days before Christmas, it was announced that Han Chong, founder of contemporary womenswear brand Self-Portrait, had acquired the Roland Mouret label under the umbrella of his new SP collection, and Mouret will play a role there as than creator. chair.
It’s a cross-generational pickup that intrigues me to no end. Chong only launched his own brand in 2013, and those guipure lace tea dresses we all remember in pretty tones helped him create a global brand.
That he acquired an iconic womenswear brand after less than a decade in business speaks to his modus operandi – designing with an everyday woman in mind, taking into account what she feels, what she needs or, in fact, what she wants in her life at this precise moment.
News for readers this week is that Self-Portrait does a return to the rails of Brown Thomas after an absence of a few years. Their purchase includes many dresses imbued with am-pm qualities.
A pre-collection is on sale in stores at the moment but the main line should not arrive until the end of next month or the beginning of March.
I checked out the purchase and it includes many spring colors and a very pretty yellow floral tiered dress with spaghetti straps, ruffles and velvet trim at the waist (€440).
Video of the day
Doing my homework on new labels that readers may not have known about and should pay attention to, there were quite a few whom I encountered at Brown Thomas when I was exploring the return of Autoportrait. Among them is CeliaB, a playful collection from Spain, in which the designer presents moments from her travels, with exaggerated textures and bursts of bold prints.
I also came across the ready-to-wear collection of Rachel Gilbert, who is, of course, famous for her formal wear. She excels in hand embellishment, striking silhouettes, and if you like big bows in modern evening wear, you’re in for a treat.
Another newcomer for your Little Black Book is the Wardrobe NYC label, a conceptual composite of luxury essentials to fit modern city life. At the top of the list is Christine Centenera, fashion director at Vogue Australia, who teamed up with streetwear designer Josh Goot, and they analyzed and analyzed why, in their view, luxury fashion was often disconnected from everyday life.
Their SS22 delivery hits stores in April, including a collaboration with Hailey Bieber.
Other incoming labels to check out are Ciao Lucia from Lucy Akin in Los Angeles, and from Istanbul comes Lug Von Siga, an acronym for Gul Agis, its founder.
I met the Electronic Sheep girls, Brenda Aherne and Helen Delany, at Electro-Fuse, an exhibition of 25 years of their work, at their alma mater, NCAD on Thomas Street.
It’s a magical journey into the past, where one can contemplate their illustrative and typographic knitwear/jacquards with varied narrative plots. Knitted triangles hang from the ceilings and you can see contemporary works, archival material as well as the new Kilburn tapestries.
The exhibition is open until February 11, and later this year will travel to the Center Culturel Irlandais in Paris, curated by Anne Kelly of the NCAD Gallery.
Charity Shop Gold
We’ve gotten so good at tracking down gems online these days that they’re increasingly showing up in charity shops after pandemic wardrobe dumps.
Save has become a central hunting ground for many people, as 98% of Irish charities have a presence on the site. It got another revamp and the name change went live yesterday. Buyers can now browse new categories, such as design and vintage.
I can also reveal that items donated by the Farfetch website will appear over the next few months. Keep an eye open.