Coach spring/summer 2023 reinvents the brand’s very popular tabby bag

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There’s been no shortage of nostalgia in fashion lately, whether it’s a new obsession with all things Y2K or the lingering interest in ’90s grunge. Yet when Coach prefaced his Spring/Summer 2023 show, held in the historic Park Avenue Armory, with a wistful montage of actors in pared-back 1940s attire enjoying an evening on the boardwalk, the references looked different enough to capture instantly my attention. Sure, a mid-century aesthetic hardly breaks, but it was off to a great start after several days of visual overload on cut-off tube tops and baggy cargo pants.

Indeed, it looks like finding something new in the past is somewhat of a theme for Coach this season. As the stage actors left the stage, the room filled with bright light and upbeat music as early models stepped out in a series of structured, oversized jackets, both leather and cotton. distressed nubby fabric. Next are chunky, deliberately darned knits (layered with silky slips), plus a series of puff-sleeved babydoll tea dresses and chic striped separates that are sure to delight the growing Gen Z fanbase. of the brand. Paired with beaded pendants decorated with bits of ephemera (keys, friendship charms, even little wooden skulls), the outfits all had a vague air of old pieces from a myriad of eras found in a vintage store and remixed in new ways.

“With Spring, I wanted to evolve notions of luxury that emphasize perfection,” says creative director Stuart Vevers. “Inspired by the new generation’s fluid approach to fashion, the collection celebrates pieces that become more beautiful the more they are worn and loved, and references to the past rediscovered in the present.”

Then, of course, there were the handbags. The American house has always found success with its totes – from its minimalist 1970s handbags to its logo shoulder styles from the early 2000s – but the last few years have been particularly successful for the brand, in largely thanks to her Tabby figure’s viral popularity with the Tik Tok crowd. (Fun fact: the name comes from its tongue design detail on the front.) This season saw two new iterations on the style: a colorful jelly version (just the right thing to match with the range of matching sandals from the collection) and a form of messenger bag that is sure to replace backpacks among the coolest kids on college campuses.

courtesy of the coach

Really, the selection of looks was inventive, playful, and fun enough to capture a fair amount of buzz. But good clearly wasn’t good enough for Coach, who had another big debut up his sleeve: new global brand ambassador Lil Nas X, who closed the runway presentation in a matching leather vest and shirts with light purple fisherman sandals. It’s a look that I would definitely wear if I had the chance. Now let’s see if the rest of the world agrees.

courtesy of the coach
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